How to install cedar plank siding? A step-by-step guide

Installing cedar plank siding is a rewarding project that significantly enhances your home’s aesthetic appeal and weather protection. Cedar’s natural beauty and durability make it a popular choice, but proper installation is crucial to ensure its longevity and performance. This guide provides a step-by-step overview of the process, from gathering your tools to the final finishing touches, helping you achieve a professional and long-lasting result.

Tools and materials needed

Before you begin, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Having everything on hand will streamline the installation process.

Tools:

• Safety Gear: Safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask/respirator, work gloves.
• Measuring & Marking: Tape measure, carpenter’s square, level (4 ft. and 2 ft.), chalk line, pencil.
• Cutting Tools: Circular saw, miter saw (for precise cuts), jigsaw (for intricate cuts around windows/doors), utility knife.
• Fastening Tools:
  • Hammer: For hand nailing.
  • Nail Gun (Pneumatic or Cordless): A siding nailer or framing nailer (with appropriate pressure setting) for efficiency.
  • Compressor & Air Hose (if pneumatic).
• Other Tools: Stud finder, caulk gun, tin snips (for flashing), possibly a siding gauge or story pole for consistent spacing.

Materials:

• Cedar Planks: Choose your desired grade (e.g., clear, knotty) and profile (e.g., bevel, clapboard, tongue & groove, board & batten). Order 10-15% extra for waste and cuts.
• Furring Strips (Optional): If installing over masonry or an uneven surface, or for a rain screen system.
• Water-Resistive Barrier (WRB): House wrap (e.g., Tyvek, Typar) or asphalt-impregnated felt paper.
• Corrosion-Resistant Fasteners: Stainless steel nails (ring shank or spiral shank are best for holding power and preventing nail pops). Avoid galvanized nails as they can react with cedar’s tannins and cause black streaks. For nail guns, ensure nails are compatible.
• Drip Edge Flashing: For roofline and around windows/doors.
• Starter Strip/Shim: For bevel siding.
• Exterior-Grade Caulk: Paintable/stainable, specifically for wood and exterior use.
• Primer/Sealer/Stain/Paint (if finishing): Appropriate for exterior cedar.
• Wood Filler (exterior grade): For minor imperfections or nail holes (if desired for a smooth painted finish).

Preparing the surface for installation

Proper surface preparation is crucial for the longevity and performance of your cedar siding.

1. Remove Old Siding: Carefully remove existing siding, trim, and any old flashing down to the sheathing. Inspect the sheathing for any damage, rot, or water intrusion. Repair or replace compromised sections.
2. Inspect and Repair Sheathing: Ensure the underlying sheathing (plywood or OSB) is sound, clean, and dry. Address any structural issues.
3. Install Water-Resistive Barrier (WRB):
   • Apply a water-resistive barrier (WRB), such as house wrap or felt paper, directly over the sheathing.
   • Start at the bottom and work your way up, overlapping horizontal seams by at least 6 inches and vertical seams by 12 inches. Secure with cap nails or staples.
   • Ensure the WRB integrates properly with existing or new window and door flashing, creating a continuous water-shedding plane.
4. Install Flashing:
   • Install drip edge flashing along the bottom edge of the wall, extending past the foundation or slab to direct water away.
   • Install flashing around windows, doors, and other penetrations. This is critical for preventing water intrusion. Use appropriate head, jamb, and sill flashing, ensuring it integrates with the WRB in a shingle-lap fashion (upper layers overlap lower layers).
5. Install Furring Strips (Optional but Recommended for Rain Screen):
   • For a rain screen system (highly recommended for cedar, especially in humid climates), install vertical furring strips (e.g., 1x3s or 1x4s) over the WRB, typically 16 or 24 inches on center. This creates an air gap behind the siding, allowing moisture to drain and promoting ventilation, which significantly extends cedar’s life.
   • If using furring, ensure insect screen is installed at the top and bottom of the air gap to prevent pests from entering.
6. Mark Layout Lines:
   • Determine your desired exposure (the amount of each plank that is visible).
   • Using a level and chalk line, mark horizontal layout lines on the WRB (or furring strips) to guide the consistent placement of each course of siding. Start by establishing a level baseline.

How to measure, cut, and stagger planks

Proper measuring, cutting, and staggering contribute to both the aesthetic appeal and structural integrity of your siding.

1. Layout and Planning:
   • Dry Fit: Before cutting, dry-fit a few planks to visualize the layout and ensure you have enough material for the length of your wall.
   • Determine Exposure: Calculate the desired exposure per plank. For bevel siding, this is typically 6-8 inches. Ensure your layout lines are accurate.
   • Consider Corners: Plan how corners will be finished (e.g., mitered, butt joints with corner boards).
2. Measure Accurately:
   • Measure the length required for each plank precisely.
   • Account for door and window openings, as well as corner treatments.
3. Make Clean Cuts:
   • Use a sharp blade designed for wood in your circular or miter saw.
   • Cut cedar planks with the “good” face up to minimize tear-out.
   • For bevel siding, ensure the top edge is cut straight.
4. Stagger Joints:
   • Avoid “H” Patterns: Never stack butt joints (where two planks meet end-to-end) directly above or below each other in adjacent courses. This creates an “H” pattern that looks bad and can compromise stability.
   • Minimum Stagger: Ensure butt joints are offset by at least 2-3 stud bays (e.g., 32-48 inches) from joints in the courses directly above and below.
   • Randomize Appearance: Aim for a random, natural-looking stagger pattern. Don’t create a repeating pattern.
   • Joint Location: Whenever possible, butt joints should occur over a stud or solid blocking for proper nailing.

Fastening and sealing cedar properly

Correct fastening and sealing are critical for weather resistance and long-term durability.

1. Acclimation: Allow cedar planks to acclimate to the local humidity and temperature for several days (or even weeks) on-site before installation. Stack them loosely to allow air circulation. This minimizes shrinking or swelling after installation.
2. Starter Strip (for Bevel Siding): For the first course of bevel siding, install a thin starter strip or shim at the bottom edge of the wall. This ensures the bottom edge of the first siding plank flares out at the correct angle.
3. Fastener Type:
   • Use ONLY Stainless Steel Fasteners: This is non-negotiable. Standard galvanized nails will react with the natural tannins in cedar, causing dark black streaks and stains around every nail head, ruining the appearance.
   • Ring Shank or Spiral Shank Nails: These provide superior holding power compared to smooth shank nails, preventing nail pops as the wood expands and contracts.
4. Nailing Schedule and Placement:
   • Concealed Nailing (for thin-butt bevel siding): Nails are driven through the bottom (thick) part of the plank, just above the butt joint, and angled upwards slightly. The nail should go through the siding and into a stud or furring strip. The next course then overlaps and conceals these nails.
   • Face Nailing (for wider planks, thicker profiles, or vertical siding): Nails are driven directly through the face of the siding and into a stud or furring strip. If face nailing, consider counter-sinking and filling nail holes for a smoother finish (especially if painting).
   • Single Nail Per Bearing: For planks wider than 6 inches, use two nails per bearing (stud). For narrower planks, one nail is usually sufficient.
   • Nail Placement: Place nails approximately 3/4 inch to 1 inch from the plank’s bottom edge (for bevel siding) or 1 inch from side edges.
   • Avoid Nailing Through Overlap: For bevel siding, do not nail through the overlap of two planks, as this restricts the wood’s natural movement and can cause splitting.
5. Leave Expansion Gaps:
   • Leave small 1/8-inch gaps at butt joints (where planks meet end-to-end) and where siding meets trim (windows, doors, corners). This allows for wood expansion and contraction.
   • These gaps will be filled with caulk.
6. Sealing with Caulk:
   • Use a high-quality exterior-grade, paintable/stainable caulk (e.g., polyurethane or silicone-modified acrylic latex) to fill all vertical butt joints and gaps where siding meets trim, windows, doors, and corner boards.
   • Ensure a continuous, weather-tight seal.

Finishing options: Paint, stain or leave natural

Choosing how to finish your cedar siding impacts its appearance, longevity, and maintenance schedule.

1. Leave Natural (Weather to Gray):
   • Pros: Requires the least initial work. Cedar will naturally weather to a beautiful silver-gray patina over 1-2 years. Environmentally friendly.
   • Cons: No UV protection initially, can lead to uneven weathering if not consistently exposed. Does not offer maximum protection against moisture.
   • Maintenance: Can apply a clear water repellent every 1-3 years to slow the weathering process and enhance water shedding, but this is optional.
2. Clear Sealant/Transparent Stain:
   • Pros: Enhances cedar’s natural color and grain while offering UV and moisture protection. Allows the wood’s beauty to show through.
   • Cons: Shortest maintenance cycle (reapplication every 1-3 years) as they wear faster under UV exposure.
   • Type: Look for exterior-grade clear sealants or transparent stains specifically designed for cedar.
3. Semi-Transparent Stain:
   • Pros: Adds subtle color while still allowing wood grain to be visible. Offers better UV protection than clear coats. Easier reapplication than paint.
   • Cons: More opaque than transparent. Reapplication typically every 3-5 years.
   • Type: Exterior-grade semi-transparent oil-based or acrylic stains.
4. Solid Stain:
   • Pros: Provides uniform color with a matte or low-sheen finish, effectively hiding wood grain but allowing texture to show. Excellent UV protection.
   • Cons: More opaque than semi-transparent. Can peel if surface preparation is poor.
   • Maintenance: Reapplication every 5-7 years.
   • Type: Exterior-grade solid acrylic latex stains are generally preferred for durability and flexibility.
5. Paint:
   • Pros: Offers the widest range of colors and a uniform, opaque finish. Provides excellent protection when applied correctly.
   • Cons: Hides the natural beauty of the wood grain. Requires meticulous surface preparation for proper adhesion. Prone to peeling if moisture becomes trapped or if paint is old/low quality.
   • Maintenance: Reapplication every 5-10 years.
   • Type: Use a high-quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint over a dedicated exterior wood primer.
   • Pre-Priming/Pre-Staining: For best results, consider applying a coat of primer or stain to all sides of the cedar planks before installation. This provides maximum protection, especially on edges and backs, and minimizes movement after installation.

Common mistakes to avoid

Avoiding these common pitfalls will ensure a more successful and durable cedar siding installation.

• Not Acclimating the Wood: Installing wood that hasn’t acclimated leads to excessive shrinking or swelling after installation, causing gaps or buckling.
• Using Non-Stainless Steel Nails: This is a major mistake that leads to unsightly black streaking and staining due to the reaction between metal and cedar’s tannins.
• Poor Surface Preparation: Skipping the WRB, flashing, or proper cleaning/repair before siding installation will lead to moisture problems and premature failure.
• Nailing Too Tightly or Through Overlap: Over-nailing or nailing through the overlap restricts the wood’s natural movement, causing splitting, cupping, or buckling.
• Not Leaving Expansion Gaps: Leads to buckling or splitting when wood expands.
• Inadequate Ventilation: Especially in humid climates, installing cedar directly over sheathing without a rain screen gap can trap moisture, leading to rot and mildew.
• Painting/Staining Wet Wood: Will lead to peeling, blistering, and mildew growth. Ensure the wood is completely dry before applying any finish.
• Not Pre-Finishing (Optional but Recommended): For maximum protection, especially on the back and edges of the planks, apply a coat of primer or finish before installation.
• Ignoring Local Building Codes: Always consult and adhere to local building codes for proper fastening, flashing, and fire ratings.

By meticulously following these steps and avoiding common mistakes, you can achieve a beautiful, long-lasting cedar plank siding installation that enhances your home’s natural charm and provides robust protection for decades.